The Square Club

Squarely: 24 Hours in Stokes Croft

by Pascale Loftus

It was hard to miss the buzz of Time Out’s inclusion of Stokes Croft and St. Pauls in their ‘coolest neighbourhoods in the world’ feature. Home to cultural landmarks such as Turbo Island and events such as St Paul’s Carnival, the locations were heralded in the top ten in the world, beating neighbourhoods in iconic cities like Chicago, Los Angeles and Singapore Put that in your pipe and smoke it, London.

Not to pass aspersions on our neighbours on the Iist, but many have raised eyebrows at the selection, pointing out the obscurity of some choices in a global context Time Out travel editor Grace Beard states that the choices are “a distinct reflection of their cities, with each of them offering something special you wouldn’t find elsewhere … Some have only just reached their moment; others have been ‘cool’ for some time.” It’s up for debate which category we fall into, though I’m sure most Bristolians would argue for the latter.

Like most ·cool’ neighbourhoods across the UK, the local scene is shaped by ethnic diversity & working class culture. There’s a potent sense of community in these areas, largely built around populations of Caribbean and Somalian residents who keep Stokes Croft moving The area is often compared to Shoreditch in East London for its tessellating graffiti, criminally expensive vintage shops and hip restaurants.

Unfortunately, its reputation is similarly tarnished by armies of students and young professionals frequenting exposed-brick coffee shops, sipping Nitro brews and cans of IPA. As one of these gentrifiers, it only seems right to shine a light on the family-run and Blackowned businesses that have built up Stokes Croft into what it is today. Shockingly, waiting half an hour outside Crafty Egg to spend your monthly salary on some avocado is not the way to experience the area. Sorry guys. Furthermore, it’s important to actively deconstruct the lens through which we view these certified-cool neighbourhoods. 

Lists such as these placing areas on a global pedestal, can lead to uncomfortable conversations for locals who call them home. Often resulting in rental price hikes and rapidly intensifying gentrification. Take Turbo Island for example. The Time Out team’s comment that you may be lucky enough to spot a ·rogue firepit’ in the space made me slightly uneasy Far from a tourist destination, Turbo Island is a patch of pavement at the Jamaica Street intersection that has stubbornly refuted any attempts at development since bombings in World War 2. Now, it’s a haven for the city’s homeless communities, who congregate around perpetual fires to stay warm and gather. I would urge visitors to the area to uplift local communities without treating residents as living exhibits.

So, without further ado, here’s my itinerary for your 24 hours in Stokes Croft.

Breakfast at Cafe Kino

A vegan cafe and community space run as a not-for-profit co-operative, with deliciously affordable plant-forward menus. Cafe Kino has been a staple on Stokes Croft since it moved into the long abandoned space in 2010. A hub for activism, philanthropy, and creativity, Cafe Kino is an integral thread in the vibrant tapestry of the neighbourhood Like many independent businesses in Bristol, the cafe is struggling financially. The very businesses that have led to Stokes Croft’s recognition are the ones at threat of closure and redevelopment. You can take direct action to save Cafe Kino by donating to the crowdfunding campaign on their website.

Buy yourself a present at Vivian May Naturals

This Black-owned business sells deliciously indulgent candles, diffusers, room mists and more. The owner, Diane, has been carefully crafting her rejuvenating scents for over a decade, and is a true artisan.

Lunch at Rice & Things

You’ll smell it before you see it – follow the smoke down to the iconic Jamaican restaurant A favourite restaurant of celebrity chefs and locals alike, the space thrives on “authentic Jamaican hospitality”, and passers-by are treated to the heady smells of the outside BBQ Try the ackee and salt fish, Jamaica’s national dish, and thank me later.

Exhibition at the People’s Republic of Stokes Croft

Pop in to see who’s exhibiting their work at the People’s Republic of Stokes Croft. Always showcasing something new and exciting, there’s exhibitions of exciting up-and-coming local creatives, a great way to discover fresh talent.

Dinner at Cafe Cuba

Possibly the most iconic mojitos in the city, Cafe Cuba serves up authentic Cuban flavours in a vibrant and intimate space. The laid-back and friendly atmosphere paired with the punchy flavours of the Caribbean make this an absolute must for any visiting foodies.

Dance at Kuumba Cultural Centre

This one was hard, as many will know Stokes Croft is saturated with iconic nightlife venues.

Most opt for cheap and cheerful and pop to the Canteen for some live music, or shimmy on

down to the Love Inn for a proper dance. However, for a truly authentic Stokes experience, find out what’s on at Kuumba Cultural Centre – bonus points if you attend one of their Monday events. By day, Kuumba host a range of events to educate the community on African culture and by night visitors can enjoy DJs and drinks.

Midnight snack at Grecian Kebab House

Taka Taka’s more self-assured cousin, all good nights end at Grecian’s. Enough said. 

So, take these recommendations, go forth and explore! Support your local businesses and creatives, enjoy the flavours of the community and see for yourself why Stokes Croft and St. Pauls earned their spot on the Iist.